Dubois, Wyoming - #4 with a Bullet

Dubois, Wyoming (elev, 6,946')

To say John Colter knew a thing or two about trekking through rugged mountain topography while enduring inconceivable hardships might be seen, to some, as pointing out the obvious. Be that as it may, he sure had a keen sense of direction and a knack for stumbling upon some of the West's most iconic landscapes. My money says he was one of the first white dudes/fur traders to see the terminal moraines of the upper Wind River Valley during the Union Pass leg of his solo circumnavigation of present day Greater Yellowstone in the winter of 1807-08. One of the most difficult and dangerous journeys ever deliberately undertaken in western history.

A little over 200 years later, he might be just now rolling over in his flatland grave to hear the news that Dubois, Wyoming (aka Never Sweat) has been ranked #4 out of the Top 10 Western Towns of 2010, at least according to True West Magazine. Yeah I know, that and a dollar will get you into the local Tie Hack Museum.

Top 10 True Western Towns

Sitting at the upper end of the Wind River Valley, and nestled between between the rugged Wind River Range to the South and volcanic Absaroka's to the north, it's a veritable sportsman's and alpinist's paradise while at the same time preserving it's own rich history through old buildings, museums and other historical institutions and events. Grizzlies and lynx still roam the surrounding forests and local ranchers, while for the most part not being very predator friendly, are good stewards of the land and preserve vast amounts of open wild country from exploitation. Formally just an overnight stop for tourists on their way to Yellowstone, it has now become a destination in and of itself by folks in the know -not unlike Pinedale, Wy. The start of the end some might say...

Enjoy it before the rubber tomahawk shops and ice cream stands take over.

Badlands

Ann Elk Refuge

Ribbon of Darkness - Togwotee Pass

Eldorado Found

Preface: We don't normally dwell on the past here at WRWT. We're much more interested in future tramps, trips and adventures, but the following narrative was too good to pass up at any time of the year. The accompanying small snippets of aggregate text seen below have been extracted from Pennsylvania folklorist Henry W. Shoemaker's novella;

Eldorado Found
The Central Pennsylvania Highlands
A Tourist's Survey

-Published in 1917 by the Altoona Tribune Publishing Company

CENTRE COUNTY has been described as a 'domain in itself' and rightly so, as it is a veritable paradise for the nature lover, the alpinist, the sportsman and the camper. Beginning at Hecla Park, with it's beautiful forest-shaded lake at Mingoville there is an unending series of wonderful pictures. The road across Nittany Mountain to Penn's Cave is at it's best in mid-June when the traveler passes between a double row of flowering laurels for a distance of about five miles.

Nittany Mountain

Penn's Cave is beautifully situated at the foot of the termination of the lofty Brush Mountain. The cave is one of the finest in the Eastern United States, the roof is high and a boat ride of one-quarter mile adds to the picturesqueness of the trip. The Karoondinha, or John Penn's Creek, rises in this cave.

The road from Spring Mills, along the banks of the Karoondinha, is beautiful in the extreme. The remains of old beaver dams at Beaver Dam Station can still be seen in the wide meadows.

Spring Mills

The road from Sober Station into the Seven Mountains is well worth following. The gorge is filled with the original white pine and hemlock timber, with rhododendron trees forty feet high growing among the tall boles of the evergreens, blooming luxuriantly and perfuming the way with their wax-like blossoms. Every half mile pure, gurgling springs are met, with their trickling surplus keeping the road always damp. even in the driest spells. The jungle is so dark that crickets make music all day.

Around Sober Station

The Road from Sober Station to Coburn (in Penn's Valley) is beautiful in the extreme. Much original timber is standing along the Karoondinha, which enhances the scenery considerably. About a mile east of Sober, a bridge crosses the Karoondinha, on which is the unique signboard "To Poe Valley". Fourteen years ago, when this writer first crossed over into Poe Valley, the scenery was even wilder and more primeval.

Karoondinha - Georges Valley

It was to Poe Valley in 1838, that the noted poet, Edgar Allan Poe, came from Philadelphia in search of an inheritance. The remains of the house where he stopped is still pointed out to travelers. Deer abound in this valley, and the wolves made it one of their last retreats. Jonas J. Barnet of Weikert, Union County, heard them tonguing deer at night when camping in Poe Valley in the winter of 1863 and a wolf followed Andrew Hironimus out of the valley one night during the same winter.

White Pines on the Road to Poe Valley

At Coburn (village of Forks - W.R.), there is a fine grove of gigantic original white pine trees, along the east slope of the gorge where Karoondinha cuts through Tussey Mountain (First Mountain - W.R.). There is no driving road through the gorge, but there is an excellent bridal path.

Karoondinha at Coburn

In the gorge, at Blue Rock, is the birthplace of Daniel Kerstetter, (1824-1907) one of the greatest panther hunters in the Seven Mountains

Panther Hollow

Following Karoondinha to Cherry Run, much fine mountain scenery is revealed...

Beavers At Work - Ralph Abel Memorial Glen

There is a superb rock formation to the mountains that is reminiscent of alpine countries, and much original hemlock on the mountain tops. The banks of the stream are dotted with hunters and campers cabins.

Karoondinha at Cherry Run

The road from Coburn (Forks) to Woodward skirts the foot of Tussey Mountain (Woodward Mountain- W.R.), and passes through many fine stretches of original timber. Pine Creek rises and sinks at several points along this road. About three miles east of Coburn on this road are the celebrated Caves of Coburn. These caves are on a level with the waters of Pine Creek and can only be entered at low water, preferably in mid-summer.

Pine Creek Farmscape

From Woodward, the road through Penn's Valley narrows to Hartleton and Mifflinburg, formally Youngmanstown, is much traversed, and contains many fin bits of wild scenery. It is now being sadly "thinned out" by theorists in the employ of the State Forestry Department. Visitors to Woodward should not miss taking a hike into Pine Creek Hollow, which lies beyond the towering Shriner Mountain (Winkleblech Mountain - W.R.).

Winklebleh Mountain & Pine Creek Hollow

The Tom Motz tract of original white pine trees, one of the few tracts of such timber remaining in the state, is a treat for the eyes, never to be forgotten. The giant trees, rising to a height of nearly two hundred feet, and straight as gun barrels, are always sighing in the wind, and are weird and sad survivors of the grand forests which once covered the Central Pennsylvania uplands. A fine stream flows through the tract giving the locality excellent camping facilities. This tract should be preserved for future generations to show Pennsylvanian's-to-come the kind of timber which once grew with lavish prodigality in our highlands.

The Highlands

Click here for more information on Henry Shoemaker.

Editors note: The "unique signboard" noted above most likely read "PoValley" as the modern day spelling of Poe Valley is incorrect. The valley was probably named for Daniel Poh, a Pennsylvania-German frontiersman who took up considerable land in said valley - W.R.

The Black Forest

Tiadaghton State Forest

Cabin fever my ass.

PA Route 44 -Western Lycoming County: If you strap on your snowshoes (ski's), shoulder your pack and take this trail...

...through a mixed hardwood forest with a dense understory of rhododendron and mountain laurel...

...after briefly stopping to apply some sunscreen and glacier glasses to prevent sunburn & snow-blindness...

Cammal & Black Forest Railroad Grade

...you'll pick up one of the old abandoned narrow gauge railroad grades on the plateau. Hopefully it will be the right one...

Black Forest

...and you'll soon enter Pennsylvania's version of Germany's Schwartzwald.

High & Light

After leaving the Black Forest you'll traverse more mature second growth hardwoods on top...

Bare Trees

...before dropping down into the headwaters of...

Headwaters - Young Woman's Creek

...the County Line Branch of Young Woman's Creek. Eventually you'll come out here. This vista is looking south towards Hyner Mountain from one of the 3 or 4 best views on the Black Forest Trail.

Life is Good

Earlier this morning the temperature was -15 degrees up in Coudersport. Yowza! This afternoon it had risen to a balmy 18F here on the Black Forest Trail in the headwaters. I'm giving this view 2 (count 'em) thumbs up!

Free your heel, free our mind.

Click here to read about Bob Webber, a true Pennsylvania Tiadaghton State Forest living legend.

Truth be told, I was just looking for and excuse to use the term "hard wood" in a blog post. Kick it hard all you dudes and dudette's. And don't eat yellow snow!