I'm in love with the Beartooth Wilderness of Montana and Wyoming. Each morning when I awake I feel like I'm joined joined heart and hip with these mountains. Even the names such as Froze-to-Death, Silver Run and Hellroaring Plateau's, Grasshopper Glacier, Wounded Man Creek and Breakneck Park all strike a resounding chord. From the sub alpine slopes of Mount Maurice (which you can see right from the Super 8 parking lot in Red Lodge) on the east side of the range to the Slough Creek Divide on the west they are the largest contiguous land mass above 10,000' in the lower 48. And, at least as far as fly fishermen are concerned, they provide a welcome respite from the more crowded rivers down at the lower elevations around the region. Charles Kuralt of CBS news once called the Beartooth Highway the most scenic highway in America and it's hard to argue with that choice. The Top of the World store was originally built in 1923 at Beartooth Lake but was moved to it's present location at the head of Little Bear Creek in the early 1960's.
Miller CreekThe "road" (and it's a real stretch to call it that) to Daisy Pass lies just east of Cooke City and takes you past Miller Creek on it's way up to the Pass. Miller Creek is one of the remote headwater streams of the famous Soda Butte Creek in Yellowstone National Park. It's too small to be a viable fishery to most people and it's slightly tainted from past mining activities in the old New World Mining District but I'd be willing to bet the infamous & ubiquitously camo-clad Nale Brothers could derrick a couple of dozen 15-16 inchers out of those small abbreviated pools in very short order. It sure is one pretty little alpine stream though.
Crown ButteBack in 1997 this area just below Daisy Pass was being proposed for the development of a large scale gold mining operation by the Crown Butte Mining Corporation, a subsidiary of the Noranda Mining conglomerates of Canada. Some estimates indicated that over a billion dollars worth of gold lay beneath nearby Henderson Mountain and the plan was to come in and tear the top off the mountain, extract the gold and store the mine tailings in perpetuity in an enormous alpine impoundment back up by a 90' high dam beneath Miller Mountain. This activity would have threatened three major river drainages; the Lamar, the Clark's Fork of the Yellowstone and the Stillwater River. To the relief of many and the consternation of a few, the feds came to the rescue when the Clinton administration stepped in and placed a moratorium on any new mining in the area and proposed a land swap between the US forest Service and Noranda. In effect, the Canadian mining company basically held this national treasure hostage to the tune of $65 million dollars in federal assets.
Miller Mountain MeadowsThis sublime alpine meadow was named after
Horn Miller, one of the founding fathers of
Cooke City, one of his cabins still stands today in the small copse of trees in the left foreground of the above photo.
Slough Creek Country from Daisy Pass - Elevation, 9,712'That tiny blue speck in the center of the above photo is Lake Abundance (17 acres) whose outlet flows 6 miles down valley to Slough Creek. The lake is fairly fertile and produces nice healthy cutts to about 2.5 pounds. Good luck trying to negotiate the rough jeep trail (it would be foolish to call it a road) in anything other than a ATV. I aborted my attempt in my Subaru Outback rental about 1/2 way down the trail after considering the impact of a sudden afternoon thunderstorm on traction before I climbed back out.
Clay Butte TrailLets go for hike: Here we have just left the Clay Butte Trailhead at 9,950' in the
Shoshone National Forest and dropped down through some engelmann spruce, whitebark pine and subalpine fir to the junction with the Granite Lake Trail. Here the trail begins to open up with some nice ooh-ahh type views of the Beartooth Plateau off in the distance.
Upper Clark's Fork ValleyNext we begin a traverse of an enormous high altitude meadow that ia about 3 miles in length. In the background is the upper Clark's Fork Valley with Pilot and Index Peaks clearly visible on the horizon. It was near this spot where I was bluff charged by a large bull moose that suddenly came high-steppin' out of a dense stand of englemann spruce while I was on the return leg of this hike. I've always wondered if it was actually possible to shit yourself to death. I came close that day.
Out Standing In My FieldIn early-mid July this meadow is carpeted with alpine wildflowers. Here in mid August it was carpeted with a dusting of snow left over from the previous night before the sun melted it all away in the morning.
Shoshone DeadwoodIf you look carefully you can still see a trace of snow in the center of this dead Whitebark Pine tree. This was during the 3rd week of August and summer is already slowly on it's way out at this elevation.
Beartooth Butte PassAlmost there. All we have to do is crest this low pass in the mountains and we'll be staring at our destination lake. Beartooth & Clay Buttes provides a magnificent backdrop all the way to the lake.
Crow LakeThis lake is only about 8-10 acres in size but is one of those few high mountain lakes capable of producing big fish. Limited spawning takes place in the outlet stream and the lake is fertile enough to maintain a healthy population of Yellowstone cutthroats & eastern brook trout; in fact fish of up to four pounds have been taken here. There are plenty of 5-star campsites scattered around the lake that would make an excellent base camp for exploring the other productive lakes in the area. I'm not gonna give away too many secrets here but let's just say that Crow Lake is not the only gem on this part of the plateau. Just grab a good quality topo map and set off exploring on your own. As J.R. Tolkien once said; "Not all of those who wander are lost" As we can see, some serious Beartooth weather is starting to move in. When I first arrived at the lake fish were already rising sporadically to small baetis mayflies but as the cloud cover increased so did the rising activity.
Crow Lake CutthroatAn atypical example of a Yellowstone cutthroat trout from Crow Lake. This particular lake is fed by springs that originate at the base of Beartooth Butte which is predominately limestone in origin, hence the lakes fertility and ability to produce larger than average fish.
Beartooth WhiteoutHere's a shot of the weather front that eventually moved in and followed me back down the trail. This is why it's so important to be prepared with the proper maps as well as good foul weather gear and extra food & water. If you take this wilderness for granted it will come up and bite you! Between the ornery moose and the weather front it almost bit me twice on one trip. Sometimes you can have four days in a row of beautiful sunshine and bluebird skies but when the weather turns bad it's sublime.
Sylvan LakeSylvan Lake is one fine looking lake with scenic qualities befitting it's name. It lies deep in timber country interspersed with alpine grass meadows along the Beartooth High Lakes Trail. These parts of the Beartooths are grizzly country so take the proper precautions if you make the trip.
Sylvan Lake OutletUnlike Crow Lake, this one is not generally considered a trophy lake due to it's high density brook trout population. Expect to catch lots of 'em- up to about a foot long. The outlet stream eventually flows into Beartooth lake which sits about four miles downstream and is a popular camping and fishing spot along the Beartooth Highway.
It was once thought that except for their picturesque value -which was as fine as anywhere in the country- the Beartooth Range was worthless and should one day be added to Yellowstone National Park. General Phillip Sheridan had recommended exactly that when he first surveyed the Beartooth Highway back in 1898. He was almost right. Eighty years later, in 1978, the lions share of these mountains became part of the
Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness (934,626 acres) in no small measure because they were seen as unsuitable for anything else.